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This is a solid Delrin (Acetal) front motor mount for SOHC (24-valve) 3.0L V6 equipped Mitsubishi / Mopar vehicles.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Once on the car, it looks stock, unless one knows what to look for. Installation is the same as replacing a stock mount.

The stock mounts are a very weak piece. As shown below, the rubber insert is only held on by two small strips of rubber, allowing a lot of engine movement. With an engine of this much torque, the mounts take a massive amount of abuse, and will not last long. Many of these stock mounts have been completely torn in half, resulting in severe wheelhop, damage to CV joints, and thumping sounds from under the hood.

In comparison, the Cheetah mount is a solid piece, that will probably outlast your vehicle. Launches, especially with the 5-speed have proven to be much quicker and more reliable with solid mounts on these vehicles, as they have a good amount of low end torque; which on FWD vehicles can make for interesting launches.

This 1 inch thick throttle body spacer works with the 2.8L V6, such as equipped Pontiac Fiero GT's. The spacer is installed between the intake manifold and the throttle body, where the throttle body gasket is located (shown as #3 in the picture below).

The cooler throttle body will also help keep the power level stay more consistent. Most cars feel slightly sluggish on very hot days, or after a lot of stop-and-go driving. Part of this is because of the intake air becoming warmer. These spacers will help stop this power loss. This works even better in combination with completely blocking of the throttle body coolant line.

This spacer can also be used as a spot to tap a nitrous line. By tapping in the spacer, no permanent hole is placed on the manifolds, for future sale or warranty work.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This is a solid Delrin (Acetal) front motor mount for SOHC (12-valve) 3.0L V6 (6G72) equipped Chrysler vehicles. This mount is the same for all three transmissions available with the V6, and in all the available models the engine was used.

Personally, I had destroyed (3) stock front motor mounts in my car. As shown below, the stock mount is hollow and not very strong. I have been using the Delrin mount since late 2000, and am very pleased with it. The motor sounds smoother and shifts are much crisper. There is not any noticeable added vibration on a car with any suspension modifications, actually the opposite seems true. Mashing the gas pedal, the car is much more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts. On a car with a stock setup, there is some added vibration though; although not much.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Once on the car, it looks stock, unless one knows what to look for. Installation takes about 45 minutes, with floor jacks, socket set, and a hammer to knock the old mount out and fit the new mount in. The mount does not include the mounting bracket, as the bracket does not need to be removed from the vehicle.

This is a solid Delrin (Acetal) transmission motor mount for SOHC (12-valve) 3.0L V6 (6G72) equipped Chrysler vehicles. This mount is the same for all three transmissions available with the V6 (each transmission has a different shaped metal bracket, but the rubber mount is the same), and in all the available models the engine was used. The mount bracket must be the updated (per a TSB) bracket for this mount to fit. Most vehicles should already have this updated bracket. This updated bracket is shown to the left.

The mount is made of one solid piece and uses the stock diamond-shaped bushing. As shown, the stock mount is hollow and not very strong.

With the stock mount, the movement is much more pronounced with the 5-speed, but is still quite apparent with the automatic transmissions also.

Personally, I had destroyed (2) stock transmission motor mounts in my car. I have been using the Delrin mounts since late 2000, and am very pleased with them.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Once on the car, it looks stock, unless one knows what to look for. Installation takes about 45 minutes, with floor jacks, socket set, and a hammer to knock the old mount out and fit the new mount in with. Click here to read detailed instructions for changing the transmission mount.

This Pontiac Fiero 12 inch Corvette Brake Upgrade Aluminum Caliper Bracket Set consists of (2) front adapter brackets and (2) rear brackets.

Each is CNC water-jet from a solid piece of 6061 Aluminum. 6061 is a strong Aluminum alloy with traces of Titanium and Chromium, which makes it the common choice for applications such as aircraft and aerospace components, bicycle frames, driveshafts, and brake components. Its weight is roughly half that of steel, and will not rust.

These brackets allow 1985 Corvette front calipers to fit on the 12 inch rotors, and 1988-96 Corvette rear calipers to fit the rear.

The holes for the front brackets are M-12 x 1.5mm. This is the same thread used other places in the brake system.

These brackets are sold as a kit for $100, for all (4) brackets shipped.

When changing over to the Corvette brakes, 12 inch stock Corvette rotors are used in place of the small, non-vented Fiero ones. The rotors have a different I.D. (inner diameter) than that of the Fiero's. This presents a problem as the rotor I.D. is designed to barely fit over the hub, so that it is perfectly centered, avoiding clearance problems with the caliper.

This fit also makes sure that there is not any side load on the lug studs. Finally, a non-centered rotor would have the same effects as a non-balanced wheel (noise, vibration, and possibly excess tire wear).

To correct this problem, Cheetah offers concentric rings to fit over the hub and match the I.D. of the Corvette rotor.

This 3/8 inch thick intake spacer is designed for the Ford Cosworth YB DOHC 16-valve Turbo engine. The engines that are compatible with this spacer will have the intake manifold as shown below. This spacer fits between the upper and lower intake manifolds, as shown.

The longer runners will help high-end power by straightening the airflow towards the cylinder at a farther distance from the valve, allowing it to gain momentum.

Insulating spacers have been around for a long time, and are a proven performance item.

Installation of this spacer is very straightforward, and is the same process as changing the stock gasket.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This 1 inch thick intake spacer kit works with the vehicles that have the 12 valve 6G72 Mitsubishi V6 found in Mopar vehicles from the 80's and 90's.

These spacers will also add volume to your plenum, which will help increase torque throughout the powerband. Also the longer runners will help high-end power by straightening the airflow towards the cylinder at a farther distance from the valve, allowing it to gain momentum.

Insulating spacers have been around for a long time, and are a proven performance item.

This spacer is 1 inch thick to provide as much insulation as possible, while still having hood clearance. It is shipped with longer mounting bolts (5/16-24 X 3") because the spacer is much thicker than the stock gasket. Installation of this spacer is very straightforward, and is the same process as changing the stock gasket.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This 1 inch thick intake spacer kit works with the vehicles listed below. The spacer is installed between the intake manifold and the throttle body, where the throttle body gasket is located.

Since this spacer can fit on hundreds of combinations (vehicles, makes, and engines), please verify that there will not be any clearance problems arising from moving the throttle body out one inch.

The cooler throttle body will also help keep the power level stay more consistent. Most cars feel slightly sluggish on very hot days, or after a lot of stop-and-go driving. Part of this is because of the intake air becoming warmer. These spacers will help stop this power loss. This works even better in combination with blocking of the throttle body coolant line (if applicable).

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This 1/2 inch thick intake spacer works with Honda F33 engine vehicles. The spacer is installed between the intake plenum and the throttle body.

Since this spacer can fit on hundreds of combinations (vehicles, makes, and engines), please verify that there will not be any clearance problems arising from moving the throttle body out one half inch.

The cooler throttle body will also help keep the power level stay more consistent. Most cars feel slightly sluggish on very hot days, or after a lot of stop-and-go driving. Part of this is because of the intake air becoming warmer. These spacers will help stop this power loss. This works even better in combination with blocking of the throttle body coolant line (if applicable).

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This 1 inch thick intake spacer is designed for 1990-98 Hyundai Sonatas with the Mitsubishi 6G72 3.0L V6 engine. The engines that are compatible with this spacer will have the intake manifold as shown to the left. This spacer fits between the upper and lower intake manifolds.

These spacers will also add volume to your plenum, which will help increase torque throughout the powerband. Also the longer runners will help high-end power by straightening the airflow towards the cylinder at a farther distance from the valve, allowing it to gain momentum.

Insulating spacers have been around for a long time, and are a proven performance item.

This spacer is 1 inch thick to provide as much insulation as possible, while still having hood clearance. Installation of this spacer is very straightforward, and is the same process as changing the stock gasket.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This motor mount set includes (2) Delrin mounts for the engine side of the "dogbone" brackets that act as upper, engine-side motor mounts.

In stock form, there are round rubber bushings on the end that attaches to the engine, as shown in the picture below. These stock mounts allow quite a bit of movement, which is not the best for performance or for driving vibration.

These Delrin replacement bushings are each made of two pieces of Delrin, connected with a 6061 Aluminum tube to act as a wear bushing for the bolt.

These mounts will help quicken up shifts, along with the many options for the square mounts on the other end of the dogbones. The car will also be more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts.

Once on the car, it looks stock, unless one knows what to look for. Installation takes about 30 minutes and can be done with a basic socket set and hammer.

Cheetah's 3800 cold-air intake pipe fits in place of the stock intake box and tubing. The pipe is made from a single piece of 3.5" mandrel-bent 304 Stainless Steel. This pipe attaches to the stock rubber pipe on the throttle body, and puts the air filter in the fender area. This area gets the coolest air, and has become a favorite of many Grand Prix owners.

The large diameter of this pipe requires opening of the fender hole. This can be accomplished by bending back the metal sheet. The filter and pipe can be taken on and off of the car as a unit with the plastic splash guard off.

Any K&N style air filter can be used, as long as the flange ID is 3.5 - 4 inches, to properly tighten on the pipe. The filter that we recommend is the SB R0817. This is the filter shown in the pictures with the chrome cap.

The stock Air Temperature Sensor location can be maintained, but we recommend putting the sensor in the pipe near the filter. This will stop the sensor from getting heat-soaked from the engine, which will make the sensor read a higher temperature than actual temperature of the incoming air. This could possibly pull back the timing, which robs even more power. Cheetah recommends putting the sensor in the fender area of the pipe, about 1 inch downstream of the air filter.

The Grand Prix Store sells an extension for this sensor, but I just cut and wired my own extension.

Also shown to the left is the splash guard that I run on my Grand Prix. It is simply a piece of Aluminum bent at a 90 angle and has had two holes drilled into it. These holes allow it to be fit between the bumper and fender guard, and bolted in between as shown. This helps keep the filter clean and dry, and a guard is recommended for everyday driving.

This intake also removes much of the clutter on the driver side of the engine bay. The stock airbox is quite large, since it holds a large flat filter and the PCM.

The PCM can be held down with a GM part made for 2001 Chevrolet Blazers. This can be bought from any GM dealer as p/n 15995679.

This 1/2" thick intake spacer works with the 3800 Series II RWD engine in the Pontiac Firebird and Chevrolet Camaro. The spacer is installed between the lower and upper intake manifold, where the intake gasket is located.

These spacers will also add volume to your plenum, which will help increase torque throughout the powerband, along with the inherit cooling properties. Insulating spacers have been around for a long time, and are a proven performance item.

Installation of this spacer is very straightforward, and is the same process as changing the stock gasket.

We recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local dealer, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. The GM p/n is 24504789.

This is an upgrade kit for the Mazda Protege and Mazda 3 rear sway bar bushings with the setup shown to the left.

The upgrade kit can be purchased for either the stock sway bar or various aftermarket bar diameters. The kit includes two Steel brackets (Aluminum brackets are shown in the photographs), two Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Kits, and the four bolts needed for installation.

The kit is installed in the same manner as the stock bushings. Installation takes about 30 minutes with a floor jack and a socket set.

The stock mount design is flawed and quickly wears the undersized bushings. The stock bushings have been known to wear to the point of making noise within a year of installation. The Cheetah kit should last the life of the vehicle. In the unlikely event that a bushing from this kit does wear out, both bushing can be replaced for only about $10 total.

The photos show a stock mount cut in half to display how thin the bushing is around the rear bar. The wall thickness is only 1/8" and very quickly wallows out the outer edges. The Polyurethane bushings included in this kit are not only a much stiffer material than stock, but will hold up much longer than the stock rubber bushings which degrade rather quickly from temperature changes. The longer and thicker 5/16" wall around the bar in the Cheetah kit is more than double that of the stock mounts. This greatly stiffens the rear suspension in the same fashion that a larger bar would accomplish.

Use this $1 charge multiplied by the appropriate quantity to pay for any custom work.

This 1" thick intake spacer kit works with the vehicles listed below. The spacer is installed between the intake manifold and the throttle body, where the throttle body gasket is located (shown as #9 in the picture below).

Since this spacer can fit on hundreds of combinations (vehicles, makes, and engines), please verify that there will not be any clearance problems arising from moving the throttle body out one inch.

The cooler throttle body will also help keep the power level stay more consistent. Most cars feel slightly sluggish on very hot days, or after a lot of stop-and-go driving. Part of this is because of the intake air becoming warmer. These spacers will help stop this power loss. This works even better in combination with blocking of the throttle body coolant line (if applicable).

This spacer can also be used as a spot to tap a nitrous line. By tapping in the spacer, no permanent hole is placed on the manifolds, for future sale or warranty work.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This solid Delrin (Acetal) motor mount fits both the front and rear mount brackets for the Chrysler / Dodge / Mitsubishi 2.5L V6 equipped vehicles.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Once on the car, it looks stock, unless one knows what to look for. Installation is the same as replacing a stock mount.

The front and rear mounts are identical and interchangeable, if needing both the front and the rear mounts, just add (2) mounts to the shopping cart.

With our long-standing relationship with aseclub.net, we offer all aseclub members a special discounted price of $40. To receive this discounted price, order with the link below, and put your aseclub screen name in the comments field.

This 1/4 inch thick intake spacer works with the above vehicles. The spacer is installed between the lower and upper intake manifold, where the intake gasket is located.

This spacer is 1/4 inch thick to provide as much insulation as possible, while still retaining stock intake supports and bolts. Installation of this spacer is the same process as changing the spark plugs. A good write-up of a spark plug installation can be seen here.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local dealer, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. The Chrysler p/n for the 2.5L and the SOHC 3.0L is MD199282, for around $8. The Chrysler p/n for the DOHC Non-Turbo 3.0L is MD143791, and around $10. Although these use different part number gaskets, the newer MD199282 can be used in place of the MD143791. The MD199282 just has two extra holes. That is why this spacer is made to the MD199282, so that one spacer will work for all three engines. These gaskets can also be picked up at any Mitsubishi dealer. I would not recommend RTV or equivalent sealants since the walls around the openings are so small.

These Delrin bushings are for manual transmissions only.

Please check your vehicles stock rubber bushings to insure these will work. There are two slightly different versions of the stock bushings. Most new Mopar vehicles have all (4) bushings the same size. Some older vehicles use (3) small and (1) large bushing. The large bushing will be on the firewall side of the transmission, and are prone to deteriorating and causing shifting problems.

All (4) stock rubber bushings from Mopar are very soft, and after time, the under hood conditions will rip them apart, making it impossible to shift. The photo to the left shows the vast difference between the stock and Delrin bushings.

These bushings are made of Delrin (Acetal). The best way to describe Delrin is that it is a plastic that has the strength of metal. It is commonly used in place of metal in applications where metal can not be used (magnetic, corrosion, or conducting / insulating reasons). It is machined exactly like metal, and on the same equipment. This is much stiffer than Urethane bushings, and it will not give or wear out. With this mount, it should never need to be replaced, unlike the stock unit. Yet, it absorbs vibration better than metal.

These bushings give the vehicle more precision and "less sloppy" shifting. This set consists of four (4) bushings, along with e-clips to fit in the retaining ring, to prevent the bushings from sliding out. The four (4) bushings allow for replacing of not only the under hood bushings, but also the bushings on the shifter itself.

As shown on the left, the Mopar option of (1) larger bushing is very evident when one looks under the hood. The large bushing has a much larger outer diameter, even though it fits on the same size rod on the transmission.

If purchasing, state in the notes area whether the large bushing is needed instead of a fourth small mount.

This 1 inch thick intake spacer is designed for the LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 engine. The engines that are compatible with this spacer will have the intake manifold as shown to the left. This spacer fits between the upper and lower intake manifolds, as shown with number 72.

These spacers will also add volume to your plenum, which will help increase torque throughout the powerband. Also the longer runners will help high-end power by straightening the airflow towards the cylinder at a farther distance from the valve, allowing it to gain momentum.

Insulating spacers have been around for a long time, and are a proven performance item.

This spacer is 1 inch thick to provide as much insulation as possible, while still having hood clearance. Installation of this spacer is very straightforward, and is the same process as changing the stock gasket.

I recommend buying an extra stock gasket from your local parts store, and sandwiching the spacer between two stock gaskets. RTV or equivalent sealant can also be used.

This Aluminum bushing is for manual transmissions only.

Please check your vehicles clutch pedal to make sure that it is a match. There are two types of clutch pedals, so one will need to verify that the vehicle in question has a bushing.

The stock bushing can wear over time, making it impossible to press the clutch in. If (and when) the stock bushing wears out, it can not only make it hard to engage the clutch, but it can completely deteriorate, causing the loss of a clutch completely during driving (trust me on this one!). This bushing also gives the vehicle more precise clutch engagement.

This bushing set consists of one bushing, along with proper e-clip to fit in the retaining ring to prevents the bushings from ever sliding out.

This set of Cheetah adjustable Sway Bar Drop (End) Links are for Porsche 996, 997, Boxster, & Caymans. The factory links are very weak and often bend at the shaft, causing steering and handling problems. These links are much stronger, made from 3/4 inch steel and heavy duty ball joint rod ends. They do not need lubricated.

The benefit of adjustability is when coil-overs are used and the vehicle is corner balanced for weight. With equal length Drop Links on a coil-over vehicle, the sway bar can add preload to one side or the other. This additional adjustment in the Drop Links can be used to ensure that the sway bar is neutral (not preloaded) at rest.

This Cheetah Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley is made of 6061 Aluminum, and has a 20% accessory reduction.

While the stock crank pulley is made surprisingly light, the smaller diameter of this pulley allows the rotational mass required to turn it to be only two-thirds of what is required to turn the stock pulley. While this gives a slight increase of power, the majority of the increase will be from the underdriving of the accessories.

The Cheetah pulley is 20% under-driven, as this is the best compromise of power and drivability. There are not any problems of battery charging, coolant temperatures, or steering assist in a normally functioning vehicle.

Testing has been done under full electrical loads for extended periods without any drops in charging capability.

The added benefit of this Cheetah pulley is that it remedies the problem of the stock Power Steering Pump overheating during spirited driving, such as time at the track. The Power Steering Pump being driven at these lower rates keep it running cooler, without any difference in steering feel.

With the smaller diameter of the pulley, a shorter belt is also needed. This belt is a 6PK2087 belt, which is a 6-rib, 82.2 inch long belt, commonly found at most automotive stores for around $20. The bolt that holds the pulley in place is a one-use-only bolt. It should be replaced whenever it is removed. This bolt is Porsche part number 900.082.085.09 and is normally found for around $3.

Horsepower increases should be up to 15hp at the crank, and this estimate has been verified from dyno results with other similar pulleys. This pulley is intended to work with any Porsche that has a stock pulley number of 996.102.115.63.

The Cheetah Light-Weight Underdrive Crank Pulley offers the largest amount of underdriving possible, a polished finish, a low price, and the largest increase in power without sacrificing drivability.

This is a solid Delrin (Acetal) front motor mount for the Porsche Boxster 986. This mount is the same for either the standard or the S model.

The stock mount, is prone to failure, and has been known to fail at less than 30,000 miles. The stock mount is hollow and not very strong. The photo of a mount below was taken out of a stock Boxster S and has been completely ripped in half. The movement was very noticeable from inside the vehicle. With a Cheetah solid mount, the shifts are much crisper. There is a small amount of added vibration on a car, but pressing the gas pedal, the car is much more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Installation takes about 90 minutes, with floor jacks, a socket set, and a press to remove the old mount. The mount does not include the mounting bracket, only the insert replacement.

Stock mounts are available only from Porsche, and are $190 or higher. That stock mount will not survive long, especially with "spirited" driving, but the Cheetah mount should last the life of the vehicle.

Cheetah also offers a semi-solid polyurethane and Aluminum mount, for those who stock levels of vibration, with the added benefits of a much more solid and lasting mount.

This is a solid Polyurethane front motor mount for the Porsche Boxster 986. This mount is the same for either the standard or the S model.

This mount has a 6061 Aluminum center with a 60A Durometer Polyurethane center.

The stock mount, is prone to failure, and has been known to fail at less than 30,000 miles. The stock mount is hollow and not very strong. The photo of a mount below was taken out of a stock Boxster S and has been completely ripped in half. The movement was very noticeable from inside the vehicle. The motor sounds smoother and shifts are much crisper with the Cheetah mount. There is some added vibration on a car, but the car feels much more stable and stiff in the back. Pressing the gas pedal, the car is much more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Installation takes about 90 minutes, with floor jacks, a socket set, and a press to remove the old mount. The mount does not include the mounting bracket, only the insert replacement.

To install this specific mount, fit the polyurethane sleeve into the bracket first, then fit the Aluminum center into the polyurethane sleeve.

Stock mounts are available only from Porsche, and are $190 or higher. That stock mount will not survive long, especially with "spirited" driving, but the Cheetah mount should last the life of the vehicle.

Cheetah also offers a solid Delrin mount, for those who need or want even less movement and do not mind added vibration.

This Cheetah Underdrive Power Steering Pulley is made of 6061 Aluminum, and offers a 20% reduction in power steering pump rotation.

This reduction remedies the problem of the stock Power Steering Pump overheating during spirited driving, such as time at the track. The Power Steering Pump being driven at these lower rates keep it running cooler, without any difference in steering feel.

The pulley slows the Power Steering Pump by having a larger belt diameter. The increased size is not enough to require a new belt; and unlike the crank pulley, the bolts holding this pulley on are able to be reused.

The Cheetah Underdrive Power Steering Pulley offers the benefit of slowing down the pump to help keep power steering fluid cooler, without having to under drive the entire system (for those who do not wish to follow that route).

The plastic trim guard that surrounds the pulley will need to be trimmed to install. This trimming will not interfere with any mechanical operation.

The Cheetah rear suspension subframe brace is made for the Porsche Boxster 986. This brace is the same for either the standard or the S model Boxster.

This polished 6061 Aluminum rear suspension brace is twenty-four inches long, and has a one inch diameter. It solidly mounts the two independent subframe mounts (shown in the photos). This prohibits camber change of the rear tires during cornering by not allowing the two suspension points to either move closer or farther apart.

With the supplied 10.9 Grade / plated metric bolts, this bar is a complete bolt-on that can be installed in around (30) minutes with a floor jack, hammer, and a socket set.

This brace mounts flush with the top face of the frame bracing that mounts to the transmission cover plate. The two existing studs (shown circles in green) need to be tapped up with a hammer. These will come out easily, making room for the supplied bolts to be put in from the top. The brace has notches milled into it to allow the new bolt head to be recessed into the bar; to prevent the bolt from spinning while the stock nut is tightened from below.

Once installed, the brace is partially hidden by the transmission plate, and only the polished diameter is visible towards the center of the vehicle near the stock anti-sway bar. This brace does not interfere with aftermarket anti-sway bars or any other suspension modifications.

There have been different variations of this brace made, and it has been commonly called an "Ernie Bar"; named for the person who did the initial track testing. The installation directions for the variations of the different bars are similar.

The Cheetah brace offers the largest bar possible, with a polished finish, at a low price, and without any adjustment needed.

This is a solid Delrin (Acetal) front motor mount for the Toyota 1MZ-FE engine. This mount was originally made for its application in the Toyota Solara, but may fit other models with the 1MZ-FE.

The stock mount shown, like that of many vehicles, is hollow and barely able to handle stock levels of power. It is prone to failure when the supporting mods increase the power numbers. Many people stiffen the mount by filling the mount with Polyurethane. While filling it does help, many have experienced the mount still failing after a time. With a Cheetah solid mount, not only with the mount not fail, but the shifts will be much crisper. There may be a small amount of added vibration on a car, but pressing the gas pedal, the car is much more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts.

The mount is installed just as the stock mount. Installation takes about 90 minutes, with floor jacks, a socket set, and a press to remove the old mount. The mount does not include the mounting bracket, only the insert replacement.

This Cheetah Delrin motor mount set includes (6) Delrin mounts for the V-Max engine.

The stock rubber mounts, shown versus a Cheetah mount, allow too much movement and will eventually wear out. These mounts will help quicken up shifts. The bike will also be more responsive, as the motor does not lose as much torque into the mounts.

These Delrin replacement bushings are each made of a single piece of Delrin, with a 6061 Aluminum tube to act as a wear bushing for the bolt.

While these mounts are much more rigid than the stock mounts, they weigh almost half of the stock mounts. A swap of these mounts will drop 5/8 of a pound from the bike.

Installation takes about 45 minutes and can be done with a basic socket set and hammer.